Life in Death Valley

Anthony LaPaglia: DEATH VALLEY.

ITS NAME CONJURES DREAD.

AND FOR GOOD REASON.

IT CAN BE HELL ON EARTH.

Woman: THIS IS EXTREME, EXTREME.

AND, YOU KNOW, IT'S NOT SOMETHING TO FOOL AROUND WITH.

LaPaglia: THIS BLISTERED TESTING GROUND IS DESERT WITHOUT MERCY.

Man: THIS PERSON HAD BAKED OUT HERE IN A DUTCH OVEN FOR A WEEK AND A HALF.

LaPaglia: YET, OUT OF THIS HOSTILE LAND EMERGES AN OTHERWORLD.

YOU CAN CROSS THIS DESERT, BUT BE CAREFUL, BE AFRAID, BECAUSE LIFE IN DEATH VALLEY IS WAY OUTSIDE YOUR COMFORT ZONE.

This program was made possible by... LaPaglia: FROM ITS DISTANT CORE 93 MILLION MILES AWAY, THE SUN FIXES A GLARING EYE ON DEATH VALLEY.

BLASTING THE LANDSCAPE WITH THE FORCE OF ITS HEAT, IT CREATES A SCORCHED EXPANSE.

BUT THIS IS NO TYPICAL DESERT.

AND THIS IS NO TYPICAL NATIONAL PARK.

ACROSS THREE AND A HALF MILLION ACRES OF SOUTHEASTERN CALIFORNIA RANGES A MONUMENTAL TESTAMENT TO NATURE'S GRAND DESIGN.

THIS IS THE LARGEST PARK IN THE CONTINENTAL UNITED STATES.

AND BY FAR, THE MOST EXTREME.

NO PLACE IN THE WESTERN HEMISPHERE IS AS HOT, AS DRY, OR AS HOSTILE.

AT FACE VALUE, ITS SHEER VASTNESS CAN BE INTIMIDATING.

AND DEATH VALLEY HAS MANY FACES.

BADLANDS BROOD OVER ANCIENT LAKE BEDS...

WHILE FICKLE CURRENTS OF SAND SHIFT ALONG DESERT FLOOR.

CRATERS BLASTED BY MOLTEN ROCK PLUNGE 700 FEET.

AND PARCHED SALT FLATS LANGUISH FOR 40 MILES.

DEATH VALLEY'S STARK TERRAIN MAY SEEM UNINVITING TO SOME, AND FOR GOOD REASON.

YOU CAN DIE HERE.

BUT FOR OTHERS, IT'S THE FORBIDDING THAT ALLURES.

Man: PEOPLE SEEM TO BE ATTRACTED BY BEING IN ALMOST THE HOTTEST PLACE YOU CAN IMAGINE ON THE EARTH.

LaPaglia: LOCAL PHYSICIAN DR. BEN JONES IS WELL ACQUAINTED WITH THE SIREN SONG OF THIS DESERT.

HE WAS ON CALL WHEN A MAN ATTEMPTED TO HIKE 20 MILES ACROSS THE VALLEY FLOOR IN THE EXTREME HEAT OF SUMMER.

Jones: I BEGAN WONDERING, WHAT IN THE WORLD IS SOMEBODY DOING HIKING ACROSS DEATH VALLEY?

LaPaglia: THE VALLEY'S 120° TEMPERATURES SUCK 3 QUARTS OF MOISTURE FROM THE BODY EVERY HOUR.

THE HIKER CARRIED ONLY 3 QUARTS OF WATER FOR THE ENTIRE TRIP.

IN THE BEST OF SITUATIONS, HE WOULD HAVE REQUIRED AT LEAST 4 GALLONS.

Jones: I CAN IMAGINE THAT HE WAS, YOU KNOW, FEELING NAUSEATED, MAYBE HAD A HEADACHE.

HIS FEET WOULD SINK ABOUT 6 INCHES INTO THE SLOSHY BRINE.

AT ONE POINT, HIS DARK GLASSES FELL INTO THE STUFF, AND HE DIDN'T EVEN BOTHER TO PICK THEM UP.

HE WAS OBVIOUSLY GETTING MORE AND MORE DEHYDRATED.

YOU BEGIN GETTING HEAT CRAMPS, LEG CRAMPS, WHERE YOU CAN'T EVEN WALK.

WHAT'S REALLY WORSE IS, IF YOU DON'T SWEAT, YOUR CORE TEMPERATURE CAN SHOOT UP TO 108° AND YOU CAN JUST DROP DEAD.

LaPaglia: THE MAN MADE IT TO WITHIN A HALF MILE OF HIS TRUCK.

6 GALLONS OF WATER SAT ON THE FRONT SEAT.

Jones: I DID THE AUTOPSY, AND THE BODY THAT I SAW WAS ABOUT HALF OF WHAT A NORMAL ADULT WOULD BE IN SIZE.

AND IT'S LIKE THIS PERSON HAD BAKED OUT HERE IN A DUTCH OVEN FOR A WEEK AND A HALF.

HIS FACE WAS MUMMIFIED, LOOKED LIKE RAMSES II, LIKE YOU'D SEE IN THE EGYPTIAN MUSEUM.

THE SKIN OF THE BODY WAS COMPLETELY PARCHED, LIKE REAL TOUGH LEATHER.

WHAT WAS INTERESTING TO ME WAS THAT THERE WAS NO SIGN OF ANY PREDATOR ACTIVITY.

THE RAVENS HADN'T POKED HIS EYES OUT, THE COYOTES HADN'T BEEN OUT THERE.

THOSE ANIMALS KNOW BETTER THAN TO BE OUT HERE.

LaPaglia: THE RULES ARE SIMPLE IN DEATH VALLEY -- ADAPT OR PERISH.

FAILURE IS FATAL.

TO SURVIVE, EVERY CREATURE HERE MUST DEVISE INGENIOUS WAYS TO OUTWIT MOTHER NATURE.

SOME SIMPLY RUN FOR COVER.

ALONG THE EDGE OF THE DUNES, ONE DESERT DENIZEN HOLES UP UNDERGROUND, WHERE IT CAN BE 15° COOLER.

KANGAROO RATS PASS THE HEAT OF DAY SEALED OFF IN THEIR DENS, WHERE THEY RECYCLE MOISTURE FROM THEIR OWN BREATH AS THEY SLEEP.

IT'S JULY AND 118° IN THE SHADE, IF YOU CAN FIND IT.

IT'S SO HOT, BIRDS ARE GROUNDED IN A HEAT-STRESSED PANT.

ROADRUNNERS FLUTTER THEIR THROATS TO MOVE THE HEAT FROM WITHIN THEIR BODIES TO THEIR MOUTHS, WHERE IT ESCAPES.

IF THEY OVERHEAT, THEY'LL DIE.

AND THAT GOES FOR ALL ROAD RUNNERS.

Man: IT'S SO HOT THAT WHEN I SMILE, LIKE, THE WATER ON MY TEETH, I CAN FEEL IT EVAPORATING INSTANTLY.

LaPaglia: CHRISTOPHER BERGLAND IS ONE OF THE WORLD'S TOP ATHLETES, SELECTED TO TAKE ON DEATH VALLEY IN THE TOUGHEST FOOTRACE ON THE PLANET -- THE KIEHL'S BADWATER ULTRAMARATHON.

FOR 135 MILES, THESE ULTRA-ATHLETES WILL GO NONSTOP THROUGH THE LETHAL JULY HEAT, SEARING THEIR FEET OVER A BROILING ROAD.

THEY'LL BE LASHED BY 30-MILE-PER-HOUR HEAD WINDS THAT'LL BURN THE BREATH FROM THEIR LUNGS.

IT'S WHAT MOST OF US WOULD CONSIDER EPIC TORTURE.

Bergland: ONE REASON PEOPLE WANT TO COME HERE AND SUBJECT THEMSELVES TO THIS CRAZY HEAT AND THE PAIN AND THE SUFFERING, AS OPPOSED TO ANOTHER ANIMAL IN THE DESERT WHO WOULD SEEK REFUGE IN THE SHADE, IS THAT OUR REGULAR LIVES ARE SO EASY AT THIS POINT AND THE ELEMENTS ARE SO INTENSE.

SO IT'S A GOOD TEST.

IT'S THE ULTIMATE CHALLENGE TO ME.

LaPaglia: IT'S A TEST THAT DRAWS EVEN THOSE WHO KNOW ALL ABOUT THE PERILS OUT HERE.

LAST YEAR, AT AGE 70, DR. JONES RAN THIS RACE FOR THE SIXTH TIME HIMSELF.

Jones: IT'S A REAL CHALLENGE TO COME OUT AND EXPERIENCE ALL OF THIS HEAT, THE DRY AIR, THE DISTANCE.

THE RACE ITSELF IS LIKE FIVE MARATHONS IN A ROW.

AND, YOU KNOW, WHAT COULD BE BETTER?

BUT YOU'VE GOT TO REMEMBER, OR REALIZE THAT THIS RACE IS NO GOOD FOR THE HUMAN BODY.

PEOPLE ARE STACKING UP A YEAR'S WORTH OF FITNESS ALL IN A FEW HOURS.

LaPaglia: FOR THE RUNNERS, THE TEST WILL COME IN DEGREES.

JUST STAYING ALIVE THROUGH THE DEAD HEAT OF SUMMER IS HARD ENOUGH.

THE BOLD FEW WHO STAY ACTIVE ARE IN A LEAGUE OF THEIR OWN.

HIGHLY SOCIAL ANTELOPE SQUIRRELS FIND THEIR COMFORT ZONE BY BELLYING INTO COOLER GROUND TO PURGE EXCESS HEAT FROM THEIR BODIES.

OTHERS, LIKE THE BLACK-TAILED JACKRABBIT, ARE SIMPLY COOLER BY DESIGN.

STANDING OVER TWO FEET TALL, THIS HARE USES ITS LONG EARS AS RADIATORS TO DISSIPATE HEAT.

A LACING OF CAPILLARIES BRINGS THE BLOOD CLOSE TO THE SURFACE OF THE SKIN, WHERE HEAT IS WICKED AWAY, KEEPING THEM COOL.

DEATH VALLEY ROASTS IN TRIPLE DIGITS FOR UP TO EIGHT MONTHS OF THE YEAR.

NO PLACE ELSE IN THE WESTERN WORLD COMES CLOSE TO BEING AS HOT FOR THIS LONG.

THE VALLEY WORKS LIKE A HUGE CONVECTION OVEN.

HOT AIR CRAWLS UP THE STEEP ROCK WALLS, COOLS SLIGHTLY, AND SINKS BACK DOWN.

COMPRESSING AS IT DESCENDS, IT HEATS EVEN MORE.

MASSES OF SUPERHEATED AIR TAKE GROUND TEMPERATURES UP TO 200°.

BUT HEAT IS ONLY THE BEGINNING.

A MERE INCH AND A HALF OF RAIN FALLS EACH YEAR, CONDEMNING THIS PLACE TO PERPETUAL DROUGHT.

CONVECTION CLOUDS TAUNT THE DESERT WITH RAIN.

MOST OF THE TIME, THEY DON'T EVEN BRING SHADE.

STORMS BLOWING IN FROM THE PACIFIC SLAM INTO THE MOUNTAINS TO THE WEST, LEAVING DEATH VALLEY IN A BARREN RAIN SHADOW.

THE TRIVIAL AMOUNT THAT DOES MAKE IT PAST THE PEAKS IS OFTEN STOLEN BACK UP TO THE SKIES IN THE FORM OF A VIRGA -- RAIN THAT EVAPORATES BEFORE EVEN HITTING THE GROUND.

YET EVEN A LANDSCAPE SO EXPOSED GUARDS A FEW SECRETS.

THIS REMOTE CORNER OF THE PARK IS OFF LIMITS TO ALL BUT AN AUTHORIZED FEW.

DEVIL'S HOLE, WHERE THE EARTH OPENS TO REVEAL A RARE WINDOW INTO DEATH VALLEY'S MOST IMPLAUSIBLE UNDERWORLD -- A UNIVERSE OF WATER.

IN TWISTED IRONY, THE DRIEST PLACE IN THE HEMISPHERE SITS ATOP ONE OF THE LARGEST AQUIFER SYSTEMS IN THE UNITED STATES, SPANNING NEARLY 40,000 SQUARE MILES.

AND HERE IN DEVIL'S HOLE, PLUNGING TO UNKNOWN DEPTHS.

GEOLOGISTS ONCE EXPLORED THE ABYSS TO 400 FEET AND FOUND NO SIGN OF BOTTOM.

THESE DIVERS ARE ON A MISSION IN THIS UNLIKELIEST OF DESERT HABITATS TO SAVE THE UNLIKELIEST OF DESERT CREATURES AND THE PARK'S MOST PRECIOUS TREASURE -- THE TINY DEVIL'S HOLE PUPFISH.

RELICS OF THE ICE AGE, PUPFISH ONCE SWAM IN FRIGID LAKES AT THE FEET OF MASTODONS.

TODAY, THEY DWELL IN THIS HOT SPRING-FED POOL WHERE THEY'VE THRIVED FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS, UNTIL NOW.

WITH ONLY ABOUT 200 LEFT, THIS SPECIES IS GRAVELY ENDANGERED.

PARK BIOLOGIST LINDA MANNING AND HER TEAM CLOSELY MONITOR THE FISH FOR CLUES TO THEIR DECLINE.

Manning: I THINK OUR GREATEST HOPE IS THAT THIS POPULATION WILL CONTINUE TO SURVIVE IN ITS NATURAL ENVIRONMENT THE WAY IT HAS FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

OUR GREATEST FEAR IS THAT IT WILL GO EXTINCT.

AND WE DON'T YET UNDERSTAND EVERYTHING THAT'S GOING ON IN THIS SYSTEM.

LaPaglia: FLUCTUATING WATER LEVELS, LIMITED FOOD SUPPLY, EVEN CONTAMINATION ARE POSSIBLE FACTORS.

BUT IT'S WHAT THEY DON'T KNOW THAT WORRIES THE TEAM MOST.

9, ONE WAS A 5 MILLIMETER.

9 FOR ME.

I HAD 5.

Manning: THIS FISH IS NOT FOUND ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD, AND SO WE ARE REALLY, RIGHT NOW, AT A POINT WHERE THEY MAY OR MAY NOT SURVIVE.

WE MAY LOSE THIS FISH EVEN WITHIN THE NEXT YEAR OR SO.

LaPaglia: WHILE THE DEVIL'S HOLE PUPFISH TEETER ON THE BRINK OF EXISTENCE IN A VAST WORLD OF WATER, THEIR COUSINS IN A SURFACE SPRING HOLD THEIR OWN IN A MERE FEW INCHES.

THE SALT CREEK PUPFISH HAVE ADAPTED TO LIVE IN WATER FOUR TIMES SALTIER THAN THE OCEAN.

THEY'RE NOT ENDANGERED, BUT HERE SURVIVAL TAKES ON SIZZLING URGENCY AS A GREEDY SUN BEARS DOWN ON THEIR SHALLOW STREAM.

AND THE SUN IS NOT THEIR ONLY OBSTACLE.

THE TINY FISH RUN THE GAUNTLET AS THEY TAKE THE LAST COURTSHIP DANCE AND CHASE THE EVAPORATING WATERS UPSTREAM.

HOUR BY SCORCHING HOUR, THE CREEK SIMMERS AWAY.

WITHIN DAYS, THE MERCILESS SUN HAS STOLEN IT... LEAVING MANY TO PERISH IN AN OPEN SALINE GRAVE.

THE LUCKY FEW WHO HAVE BEATEN THE RETREATING WATER REACH THE SPRING'S SOURCE AND REPLENISH THE GENE POOL.

MOST WILL LIVE OUT THEIR DAYS HERE.

IT MAY BE SIX MONTHS BEFORE THE CREEK FLOWS AGAIN.

FROM THIS BRACKISH ENVIRONMENT SPRINGS A ROBUST OASIS.

NEARLY 1,000 PLANT SPECIES GROW IN THE PARK.

PICKLEWEED AND SALTBUSH THRIVE BY MAINTAINING A HIGHER SALT CONTENT THAN THE SOIL, SO THEY DON'T LOSE WATER HERE LIKE OTHER PLANTS WOULD.

EVEN WITH ROOTS ENCRUSTED, THEY DO JUST FINE.

THE DESERT HOLLY MOUNTS ITS OWN DEFENSE IN THE HEAT OF THE SUMMER.

AS RUTHLESS SUN RAYS BOMBARD THE PLANT, IT ANGLES ITS LEAVES TO AVOID BEING BLASTED BY THE BEAMS.

WAITING FOR RELIEF CAN BE UNPLEASANT WORK, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU'RE THE LARGEST NATIVE IN THE PARK.

BUT DESERT BIGHORN SHEEP ARE SKILLED SURVIVALISTS.

THEIR NINE-STAGE DIGESTIVE SYSTEM ENABLES THEM TO DERIVE NUTRITION FROM THE HARSHEST OF DESERT PLANTS.

DEATH VALLEY'S LIMITED RESOURCES KEEP THIS POPULATION IN CHECK.

ONLY ABOUT 400 SHEEP ROAM THE ENTIRE PARK.

AND WHEN THE BURGEONING HEAT BECOMES TOO MUCH, THESE NIMBLE CLIMBERS NEGOTIATE THE CRAGGY CLIFFS WITH EASE, SCRAMBLING HIGHER WITH THE RISING TEMPERATURES.

BUT WHEN IT COMES TO LORDING OVER THE ROCKY HILLSIDES, ONE BRAWNY BEAST REIGNS SUPREME -- THE CHUCKWALLA.

LARGEST OF ALL LIZARDS HERE, THEY BULK UP BY EATING THEIR GREENS.

BUT UNLIKE THE BIGHORN, THEY CHOOSE ONLY PLANTS HIGH IN MOISTURE.

IN FACT, THEY HAVE AN UNCANNY ABILITY TO GAUGE THE WATER CONTENT OF PLANTS AS THEY EAT.

IF IT'S TOO LOW, THEY'LL MOVE ON.

AT 3:00 P.M., THE MERCURY PEAKS AT 128°.

TO RUN THROUGH THE HOTTEST PART OF THE DAY SEEMS IMPOSSIBLE.

TO TAKE IT SLOW JUST PROLONGS THE AGONY.

CHRIS BERGLAND IS HANGING TOUGH.

Bergland: LAST YEAR, I STEAMED THROUGH HERE, WALKED THE END.

SO MAYBE THIS YEAR I'LL WALK THIS PART AND STEAM THROUGH THE LAST HALF.

SO I'M OPTIMISTIC.

LaPaglia: BUT OPTIMISM ALONE WON'T GET EVEN THIS THREE-TIME IRON MAN CHAMP THROUGH THE RACE.

EACH RUNNER MUST HAVE A SUPPORT CREW WORKING TO COOL THEM DOWN WITH EVERY STEP.

WE STARTED OUT WITH 25 GALLONS OF WATER AND ABOUT 500 POUNDS OF ICE.

WE'VE STILL GOT SOME WATER.

WE HAVEN'T USED ALL OUR 25 GALLONS.

IT'S LIKE WALKING INTO A WALL.

IT'S SO HOT, I CAN'T EVEN BEGIN TO DESCRIBE IT.

LaPaglia: THE CREWS TANGLE WITH THE HEAT THEMSELVES, BUT KEEP IT ALL IN PERSPECTIVE.

Woman: IT'S HARDER FOR THEM, RIGHT?

SO WE CAN'T REALLY COMPLAIN, I GUESS.

Woman: THIS IS EXTREME, EXTREME.

AND, YOU KNOW, IT'S NOT SOMETHING TO FOOL AROUND WITH.

THE PAIN IS UNBELIEVABLE.

LaPaglia: PAM REED HAS BEEN DOWN THIS ROAD BEFORE.

SHE'S A TWO-TIME WINNER OF THIS RACE.

WE HUMANS COOL OURSELVES BY SWEATING.

BUT HERE, PERSPIRATION VAPORIZES INSTANTLY.

PAM DOES HER BEST TO REHYDRATE BY DRINKING OFTEN, BUT THE EFFECT IS ONLY TEMPORARY.

REPTILES LIKE THE CHUCKWALLA ARE MASTERS AT CONSERVING MOISTURE BUT HAVE NO MEANS OF REGULATING HEAT.

TO AVOID OVERHEATING, HE SEEKS SHELTER.

FOR THE REST OF HIGH SUMMER, HE'LL SPEND MOST OF THE TIME IN THE SHADE, DRAWING ON MOISTURE RESERVES STORED WITHIN HIS BODY.

PAM'S METABOLISM IS ALSO EXTRAORDINARY.

SHE'S ALREADY BEYOND THE POINT MOST PEOPLE CAN SURVIVE.

AND THERE ARE STILL 100 MILES TO GO.

OFF THE ROAD, THERE'S A CREATURE BETTER EQUIPPED FOR A FOOTRACE IN DEATH VALLEY -- THE FRINGE-TOED LIZARD, CUSTOM DESIGNED TO HANDLE THE SAND WITH SPEED AND EFFICIENCY.

COMBED FEET ENABLE IT TO TEAR OVER BURNING DUNES AT SPEEDS OF 20 MILES PER HOUR IN HOT PURSUIT OF PREY.

BUT WHEN HOTLY PURSUED BY THE SUN, IT HELPS TO BE AN ESCAPE ARTIST.

DEATH VALLEY'S HUMAN HISTORY IS PAINTED IN STROKES OF SUCCESS AND DEFEAT.

FOR 9,000 YEARS NATIVE AMERICANS HAVE COPED BY WORKING WITH THE ELEMENTS.

IN THE HEAT OF SUMMERS PAST, THEY SOUGHT HIGHER, COOLER GROUND.

BUT 19th CENTURY GOLD-SEEKERS, OUT TO STRIKE FORTUNES AMID THE ROCK, INSTEAD STRUCK HARDSHIP.

LACK OF WATER AND PROPER COOLING CAUSED EQUIPMENT TO FAIL.

AND IN THEIR QUEST TO TAME THE VALLEY, THE MINERS THEMSELVES WERE BROKEN.

HEAT WAS A CONSTANT COMPANION... AND A HARDENED KILLER.

THOUGH A FEW GOLDEN DREAMS WERE REALIZED, MANY LEFT BEHIND A LEGACY IN RUINS.

ONE TREASURE THE GOLD-DIGGERS COULD NOT HAVE MISSED SPARKLES JUST OVERHEAD -- THE DAZZLING JEWELS OF THE DEATH VALLEY NIGHT.

Man: I THINK THE STARS AND THE ABILITY TO SEE THEM GIVES A PERSON A KIND OF GROUNDED EXPERIENCE IN REALITY.

IT'S NOT PICTURES ON TV.

IT'S NOT A COMPUTER GAME.

IT'S THE REAL UNIVERSE.

LaPaglia: WITH THE HELP OF HIGH TECHNOLOGY, PARK SERVICE SCIENTISTS CHAD MOORE AND DAN DURISCOE ARE MONITORING AMERICA'S DARKEST SKIES IN AN EFFORT TO KEEP THEM UNSPOILED BY LIGHT POLLUTION.

DEATH VALLEY'S SKY IS AMONG THE MOST PRISTINE.

Man: FOR MILLIONS OF YEARS, PEOPLE HAVE HAD THIS CONSTANT COMPANION OF THE NIGHT SKY.

IT WAS THEIR CALENDAR.

IT WAS THEIR WATCH.

IT WAS SOMETHING THAT THEY LOOKED AT EVERY NIGHT, PERHAPS OUR MODERN EQUIVALENT OF TV.

LaPaglia: BUT EVEN HERE, THE DARK SKY IS AT RISK.

FROM 100 MILES AWAY, THE LIGHTS OF LAS VEGAS SPILL OVER THE HORIZON, AND AIRCRAFT BEAMS STAB THE STARS.

[ SIRENS WAILING ] [ TRAFFIC NOISE ] Man: IT'S ONLY BEEN THE LAST 100 YEARS THAT WE'VE HAD ELECTRIC LIGHTS AT NIGHT, WHERE WE HAVE COMPLETELY CHANGED OUR EXPERIENCE OF THE NIGHT.

LaPaglia: BY KEEPING CONSTANT MEASUREMENTS ON ENCROACHING LIGHT, DAN AND CHAD ARE HELPING PARK OFFICIALS AND LOCAL COMMUNITIES TO CONTROL IT.

Duriscoe: IF WE DON'T DO ANYTHING, WE MAKE NO CHANGES, WE CONTINUE TO LIGHT MORE AND MORE CITIES AND DO IT UNWISELY, IT WILL BE LOST.

LaPaglia: THOUGH IT FEELS WORLDS AWAY, DEATH VALLEY IS EASILY ACCESSIBLE, ONLY A FEW HOURS' DRIVE FROM LAS VEGAS OR LOS ANGELES.

MOST VISITORS EXPERIENCE THE PARK FROM THE SAFETY OF THE ROAD, A NARROW BLACKTOP LIFELINE THROUGH THE VALLEY.

BUT VENTURE AWAY FROM THE ROAD, AND YOU MUST ACCEPT THIS PARK ON NATURE'S TERMS.

THE VAST TREELESS EXPANSE BECKONS EXPLORERS.

IT'S EASY TO WANDER OFF THE BEATEN TRACK.

OUT HERE, THERE IS NO BEATEN TRACK.

THIS PARK, THE SIZE OF CONNECTICUT, IS 95% RAW, WILD LAND.

WITH SO FEW TRULY WILD PLACES LEFT, DEATH VALLEY BEWITCHES ADVENTURE-SEEKERS.

LOCATIONS NAMED COFFIN PEAK AND DEAD MAN'S PASS EVOKE MORBID CURIOSITY.

BUT TREAD WITH CARE.

FINDING A PERSON LOST IN SUCH IMMENSE, REMOTE TERRAIN IS NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE.

SOMETIMES, PEOPLE DISAPPEAR INTO A WILDERNESS OF ROCK.

THESE BONES OF THE EARTH ARE THE WINDOWS TO THE PAST.

FOR NEARLY TWO BILLION YEARS, THE STORY OF DEATH VALLEY HAS CHURNED WITH THE VIOLENCE OF ITS NATURAL FORCES.

SEETHING SUBTERRANEAN CAULDRONS, THUNDERING VOLCANOES, AND CATACLYSMIC EARTHQUAKES TWISTED, WARPED, AND ROCKED THE LANDSCAPE.

SIMPLY PUT, DEATH VALLEY'S EVOLUTION IS THAT OF SLOW TORTURE.

20 MILLION YEARS AGO, THE VALLEY AS WE KNOW IT BEGAN TO TAKE SHAPE AS THE EARTH'S CRUST LITERALLY CAME APART AT THE SEAMS.

BLOCKS OF LAND SLID PAST ONE ANOTHER, FORMING ALTERNATING BASINS AND RANGES.

FOR THE PAST FOUR MILLION YEARS, THE RISING MOUNTAINS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE VALLEY HAVE BEEN ENGAGED IN A COLOSSAL TUG OF WAR.

AS THEY CONTINUE TO RISE, THE VALLEY CONTINUES TO SINK.

ITS FLOOR LIES NEARLY 300 FEET BELOW SEA LEVEL, BUT ACTUAL BEDROCK IS BURIED BENEATH 9,000 FEET OF GRAVEL, SALT, AND MUD.

THOUGH TODAY, DEATH VALLEY APPEARS LOCKED IN TIME, THERE ARE UNEXPECTED FORCES AT WORK THAT CAN ALTER THE LANDSCAPE IN A FLASH.

WOW.

AUGUST 15, 2004, A DAY TO REMEMBER.

LaPaglia: PARK RANGER CHARLIE CALLAGAN HAS SEEN THESE FORCES IN ACTION.

Callagan: AT ABOUT 7:30, I'M LOOKING TO THE SOUTH AND I SEE THE LIGHTNING.

[ THUNDER ] AND I'M LIKE, I THINK THERE'S A STORM HAPPENING.

I START GETTING A LITTLE BIT OF RAIN ON THE WINDSHIELD.

I DRIVE AROUND THE CURVE.

THERE'S MORE AND MORE RAIN.

AND THEN WITHIN THE NEXT HALF MILE, A TORRENT OF RAIN.

IT'S A THUNDERSTORM, IT'S A CLOUDBURST.

THERE'S WATER FLOWING ACROSS THE ROAD.

AND TO ME, IN THE DESERT, I KNOW THIS MEANS THERE'S GOING TO BE A FLOOD.

SO, I'M LIKE, I'M OUTTA HERE, IT'S GOING TO FLOOD!

LaPaglia: AND AS QUICKLY AS IT CAME, IT WAS GONE.

MORNING ROSE DEAD SILENT AND PRISTINE.

BUT EVERYWHERE WAS SHOCKING EVIDENCE OF WHAT HAD TAKEN PLACE OVERNIGHT.

THIS WASN'T A 10- OR 20-YEAR FLOOD.

THIS WAS MORE LIKELY A 100- TO 500-YEAR EVENT.

THIS WAS UNPRECEDENTED.

LaPaglia: WITHIN 20 MINUTES, THE STORM UNLEASHED A DELUGE THAT ROARED DOWN FROM THE MOUNTAINS.

IT WIPED OUT 13 MILES OF HIGHWAY, SWEPT NINE VEHICLES INTO THE WASH, AND TRAGICALLY KILLED TWO PEOPLE.

IN DEATH VALLEY, WATER MAKES ITS MARK, SOMETIMES BLESSING, SOMETIMES CURSING, BUT FOREVER SHAPING THIS LAND.

FLASH FLOODS HAVE SCOURED THE HILLSIDES FOR MILLIONS OF YEARS, SWEEPING SEDIMENTS INTO THE VALLEY, WHERE THEY SPREAD INTO MAGNIFICENT ALLUVIAL FANS.

IN GLACIAL TIMES, LAKES UP TO 600 FEET DEEP DROWNED DEATH VALLEY.

TODAY, THEIR BEDS RIPPLE ALONG THE FLOOR AND CONTINUE TO BE CARVED BY THE ELEMENTS.

BADWATER -- ITS TOXIC NAME SAYS IT ALL.

IT'S SO EXTREME, NOTHING SEEMS TO GROW HERE, EXCEPT SALT.

WHEN YOU'RE AT THE LOWEST POINT IN THE WESTERN HEMISPHERE, THERE'S NOWHERE TO GO BUT UP.

HERE, EVEN THE SKY IS THIRSTY.

AS MINERAL-RICH WATERS FLOOD AND EVAPORATE, ONLY SPIRES OF SALT REMAIN, SOME UP TO 3 FEET HIGH.

CONDITIONS ARE SO SEVERE HERE THAT SCIENTISTS USE DEATH VALLEY AS A NATURAL LABORATORY FOR STUDYING POSSIBLE LIFE ON MARS.

ON EARTH, THIS IS THE CLOSEST WE COME TO ANOTHER PLANET.

AND IN THIS ABRASIVE OTHERWORLD, HUMANS ARE THE ALIEN SPECIES.

THIS DESERT DARES US TO REACH BEYOND OUR PERSONAL OUTER LIMITS.

BUT EVEN MEN OF IRON CAN MELT OUT HERE.

Bergland: EVERY MUSCLE IN MY BODY IS, LIKE, TWITCHING.

NO, IT DOESN'T FEEL GOOD.

OH.

SO ANNOYING.

OHH.

MY BODY SENT ME A SIGNAL TO SLOW DOWN, SO I DID.

OH, WELL, WAIT AND RIDE IT OUT.

LaPaglia: THE BLAZING AFTERNOON PLAYS TRICKS ON THE MIND, AND COOKS UP A MIRAGE.

SOMETIMES IT'S FOR REAL.

THE OASIS AT THE FURNACE CREEK RESORT OFFERS A WELCOME RESPITE FROM THE HEAT TO PARK VISITORS... OF ALL KINDS.

HERE, THE LIVING IS EASY.

MAYBE A LITTLE TOO EASY.

FOR THE COYOTE AND THE ROADRUNNER, CLASSIC ADVERSARIES, THE FUN IS USUALLY IN THE CHASE.

BUT SOMETIMES, IT'S JUST TOO HOT TO BOTHER.

WATER BRINGS SWEET RELIEF.

FURNACE CREEK TAPS THE MOST GENEROUS SPRING SYSTEMS IN DEATH VALLEY, WHICH PRODUCE 2,000 GALLONS A MINUTE.

NOT A DROP OF IT IS WASTED ON THESE RESIDENTS.

AWAY FROM THE AMENITIES OF THE OASIS, LIFE TAKES A HARDER TACK.

SOME SEEK OPPORTUNITY UNDER THE COVER OF DARKNESS.

AFTER SPENDING THE DAY IN HER BURROW, THE MERRIAM'S KANGAROO RAT HOPS OFF TO FORAGE.

SHE DOESN'T NEED TO VENTURE FAR FOR THE GRASS SEEDS SHE'S AFTER, BUT TO STRAY EVEN A FEW YARDS FROM HER HOLE COULD BE RISKY.

REMARKABLY, KANGAROO RATS LIVE THEIR ENTIRE LIVES WITHOUT WATER.

THEY METABOLIZE ALL THEY NEED FROM THE DRY SEEDS THEY EAT.

WATER ISN'T EVEN NECESSARY FOR A BATH.

A MOONLIT SCRUB IN THE SAND REMOVES OILS FROM HER COAT AND KEEPS HER CLEAN.

BUT A LAPSE IN VIGILANCE CAN COME AT A COST.

A STEALTHY PREDATOR, THE DESERT SIDEWINDER, HAS NO QUALMS ABOUT MUSCLING IN ON OTHERS' TERRITORY.

NOT ONLY WILL HE HELP HIMSELF TO A MEAL, HE'LL CLAIM THE DEN WHEN HE'S THROUGH.

AT 2:00 A.M., IT'S 111°.

FOR THE RUNNERS, NIGHT OFFERS LITTLE RELIEF.

BODIES HAVE REACHED THEIR BREAKING POINT.

Man: SOUNDS LIKE SHE'S PRETTY FAR BEHIND ON FLUIDS.

YOU KNOW WHAT WE CAN DO?

WE CAN START WITH GETTING SOME FLUIDS IN HER AND KIND OF CATCH UP.

Woman: YOU'RE GOING TO GO BACK OUT LATER?

HOPEFULLY, YEAH.

OKAY, THEN YOU DRINK.

HE'S NOT DRINKING.

LaPaglia: FOR SOME, THIS IS WHERE THE ROAD ENDS.

Bergland: I FELT GREAT COMING IN.

I FELT REALLY FRESH AND STRONG AND I DID FOR, LIKE, THE FIRST 25 MILES.

BUT SUDDENLY OUT OF NOWHERE, MY LEGS JUST, PSHH, GAVE OUT, AND IT WAS WEIRD.

I'VE NEVER HAD IT HAPPEN BEFORE.

I'VE NEVER HAD THIS EXPERIENCE OF DROPPING OUT OF A RACE, SO IT'S KIND OF -- IT WAS A LITTLE EMOTIONAL.

IT OPENED ME UP.

IT, LIKE, RIPPED ME WIDE OPEN.

LaPaglia: MORNING BRINGS A CHANGE IN THE AIR, AND IT'S A FORCE TO BE RECKONED WITH.

WIND.

LASHING THE VALLEY IN A CONFUSION OF SAND, IT WHIPS ANCIENT ROCK INTO MAJESTIC DUNES.

AMID THESE MOUNTAINS OF SAND, TOWERS OF DUST WHIRL LIKE THE DEVIL.

AFTER ENDURING 120 MILES OF BARBARIC CONDITIONS, THE RUNNERS ENTER THE LAST LEG OF THE RACE, AN 8,300-FOOT CLIMB INTO THE TREE-CLAD MOUNTAINS OF THE SIERRAS.

WITH EACH STEP, THEY LEAVE THE INFERNAL DESERT FARTHER BEHIND, NOT ONLY RISING OUT OF DEATH VALLEY, BUT, IN FACT, TRANSCENDING IT.

[ CHEERS AND APPLAUSE ] AFTER 27 HOURS... A WINNER.

I'M A MESS.

AHH.

THAT WAS TORTURE.

THAT HURT IN A GOOD WAY.

LaPaglia: ONLY ONE WILL CLAIM FIRST PLACE...

BUT ALL WILL CLAIM VICTORY.

[ CHEERS AND APPLAUSE ] PUSHED BEYOND THE LIMITS OF PHYSICAL AND MENTAL ENDURANCE, EACH RUNNER CROSSES THE FINISH LINE TRANSFORMED.

Jones: YOU DON'T COME OUT THE SAME PERSON PHYSICALLY.

BUT MENTALLY, YOU CAN COME OUT A LOT BETTER OFF, BECAUSE IT BECOMES A SPIRITUAL EVENT, I THINK.

LaPaglia: OCTOBER.

AS THE SUN EASES ITS GRIP, A DIFFERENT KIND OF RACE HAS JUST BEGUN.

WITH THE CURSE OF SUMMER FINALLY BROKEN, CREATURES EMERGE FROM THEIR SUMMER HIDING PLACES.

SOME TAKE THEIR LIBERATION TO THE STREETS.

HAVING WAITED 10 YEARS FOR A SINGLE SHOT AT PROCREATION, MALE TARANTULAS HEAD OFF IN THEIR LAST YEAR OF LIFE IN SEARCH OF A FEMALE.

THEY'LL CANVAS MILES TO FIND ONE WHO'S RECEPTIVE.

FEMALES LIVE TWICE AS LONG AS MALES, SO THEY HAVE THEIR SHARE OF PARAMOURS AND CAN AFFORD TO BE CHOOSY.

HE MUST HAVE JUST THE RIGHT TOUCH.

STRUMMING WITH HIS LEGS, HE SIGNALS HIS INTENTIONS.

SHE LIKES WHAT SHE HEARS AND COMES UP TO INVESTIGATE.

REJECTION'S NEVER EASY, BUT THIS MALE IS LUCKY -- HE GETS AWAY WITH HIS LIFE.

TO RECOUP HIS STRENGTH, HE RETREATS TO A NEARBY PUDDLE TO DROWN HIS SORROWS IN A LONG DRINK.

HE NEEDS THE NOURISHMENT.

IT MAY BE DAYS BEFORE HE FINDS ANOTHER POTENTIAL MATE.

AND HE MUST HURRY -- IN JUST A FEW WEEKS, THE GROUND WILL BE TOO COLD FOR ACTIVITY AND FEMALES WILL SEAL OFF THEIR HOLES FOR THE APPROACHING WINTER.

CIRRUS CLOUDS, FAST-MOVING AND EASTBOUND.

THESE OUTRIDERS FROM THE WESTERN SKIES SIGNAL SOMETHING BIG IS ON THE HORIZON.

SOMETHING, IN FACT, EXTRAORDINARY.

EVEN HERE, SOMETIMES, HELL FREEZES OVER.

AS THESE MIGHTY FORCES CONSPIRE AGAINST THE SUN, THEY ALSO DRIVE A CURIOUS PHENOMENON -- ROCKS THAT RACE WITH THE WIND.

ON THE FLAT CLAY SURFACE OF THE RACETRACK PLAYA, BOULDERS UP TO 700 POUNDS SAIL INEXPLICABLY.

THOUGH NO ONE HAS EVER SEEN THEM MOVE, EACH LEAVES A TRAIL THAT CHRONICLES THEIR JOURNEY, SOME UP TO 3,000 FEET LONG.

SCIENTISTS HAVE PUZZLED OVER THEIR MYSTERIOUS MOVEMENTS FOR YEARS, OFFERING VARIOUS THEORIES.

AS WINTER STORMS PUNISH THE PLAYA AT GALE FORCE, WIND OBVIOUSLY PLAYS A SIGNIFICANT ROLE.

BUT WHETHER ITS ALLY IS ICE, WATER, OR SOMETHING ENTIRELY DIFFERENT REMAINS TO BE DETERMINED.

FOR NOW, DEATH VALLEY WILL KEEP THIS MYSTERY LOCKED IN STONE... COME HELL OR HIGH WATER.

THE SUN HAS BEEN DEVOURED.

[ THUNDER ] AND ONCE AGAIN THE VALLEY HAS BEEN TAKEN BY STORM.

BUT UNLIKE THE SUMMER DOWNBURST THAT WROUGHT DEVASTATION, THIS WINTER GOLIATH SHOWS A BENEVOLENT SIDE.

SOAKING THE ENTIRE PARK FOR FIVE STRAIGHT DAYS -- FROM MOUNTAINS TO CANYONS TO VALLEY FLOOR -- THIS NOURISHING RAIN QUENCHES THE DESERT'S DEEPEST THIRST.

LIKE TINY TIME CAPSULES, SEEDS THAT HAVE LAID DORMANT FOR DECADES ARE AT LAST UNLOCKED AND GIVEN THE CHANCE TO TAKE PART IN AN EPIC METAMORPHOSIS.

SPRING EXPLODES IN A MILLION ACRES OF COLOR.

CONDITIONS NEED TO BE IDEAL TO CONJURE THIS KIND OF MAGIC.

AND THE WINTER DOWNPOUR WAS DEATH VALLEY'S PERFECT STORM.

IT CAME AT JUST THE RIGHT TIME AND IN JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT, TREATING VISITORS TO THE BIGGEST BLOOM THIS PARK HAS SEEN IN A CENTURY.

SPRING WILL LAST MERE WEEKS.

AND EVERYONE HERE KNOWS THIS TIME OF YEAR IS ALL ABOUT THE BASICS.

THE MERCURY IS RISING AND THE CLOCK IS TICKING.

IT'S A WAKE-UP CALL TO ONE WHO HAS SLEPT THROUGH ALL THE DRAMA.

SPENDING 95% OF HIS LIFE UNDERGROUND, THE DESERT TORTOISE SPRINGS INTO ACTION... MORE OR LESS.

HE TAKES ADVANTAGE OF THE DESERT WHEN IT'S LEAST LIKE A DESERT.

IN THIS BRIEF SEASON, HE MUST DO MOST OF HIS EATING FOR THE YEAR AND DASH OFF TO FIND A MATE.

THOUGH SHE SEEMS UNIMPRESSED WITH HIS ARDENT DISPLAY, HE'S DETERMINED TO WOO HER.

WHEN YOU ONLY HAVE A FEW WEEKS ABOVE GROUND, YOU'D BETTER MAKE THEM COUNT.

IN A YEAR LIKE NO OTHER, DEATH VALLEY IS UTTERLY TRANSFORMED.

WHILE THE HILLSIDES ARE AWASH IN COLOR, THE VALLEY FLOOR IS SIMPLY AWASH.

THE WINTER RAINS HAVE GATHERED INTO AN IMMENSE LAKE, AN EPHEMERAL TRIBUTE TO THE ANCIENT WATERS THAT HELPED SHAPE THIS PLACE.

THE CRUEL BLAZE OF SUMMER WILL SOON RECLAIM THE ROCKS AND THE SAND.

BUT FOR NOW, WHAT WAS ONCE HELL ON EARTH GIVES WAY TO A FLEETING HEAVEN.