MICHAEL: Hello, and welcome to Ireland with Michael.

I'm Michael Londra, and in this show I get to tell you everything I love about my home country, the best way I know how, through music.

Today, we're back in Dublin, a city as multifaceted as the people who call it home.

As Ireland's capital, it's a hub for museums, theater, and libraries full of the revolutionary literature written in and about this great city.

A place where finding a taste of culture is as easy as finding the taste of a pint.

So take a walk with me now on the finer side of Dublin.

♪ ♪ ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael is made possible by... ♪ ANNOUNCER: Whether traveling to Ireland for the first time, or just longing to return, there's plenty more information available at Ireland.com.

♪ ANNOUNCER: CIE Tours, sharing the magic of Ireland for 90 years.

♪ ANNOUNCER: Aer Lingus has been bringing people home since 1936.

If you are thinking about Ireland, Aer Lingus is ready when you are to take you home.

ANNOUNCER: The Pets are once again the champions.

MICHAEL: One of the pillars of Irish culture is the games that we play.

♪ Some of which have been with us for as long as we've had recorded history.

♪ One of those is the great sport of hurling.

A goal-scoring game played with sticks of ash called hurleys.

♪ It's been referenced as being played at the Hill of Tara, in County Meath, since as long ago as 1200 BC.

♪ That's given hurling plenty of time to leave its mark on our legends in history, and remains all over Ireland a fixture of daily life.

(seagull cries) (ball smacks hurly stick) For hurling and its only slightly younger cousin Gaelic football, there's one hallowed stadium that's a necessary pilgrimage for all fans.

♪ The center of our national sports life is right here in Croke Park.

It's a place that so many Irish have fond memories of, myself included.

All through my boyhood, it was nearly every weekend a pilgrimage up to this hallowed stadium with my father.

Although I was a terrible hurler, like really terrible, I loved to watch them play.

And that love for the game was something that my da and I shared.

And week after week Croke Park is where the very best of it happened.

ANNOUNCER: Anything could happen, it does!

(crowd cheering) MICHAEL: Ian, we're here in what is really a holy site in Ireland.

It's great to see so many kids coming up.

I- I'm as- I'm assuming they come from all over Ireland.

What do they learn about this sport when they come here?

IAN: So I guess they learn about the origins of the games.

Gaelic football is about 700 years old.

Hurling is actually over two and a half thousand years old.

MICHAEL: I love where you built the museum, right in the heart of really what is the GAA in Ireland, the home of the Gaelic Athletic Association.

IAN: Well, if you're coming to the stadium you can't say you've missed us.

We're literally underneath the Cusack Stand here.

MICHAEL: Right up there.

IAN: Right up there, directly above your head.

♪ MICHAEL: If sport's not your thing, and you'd rather skip the stadiums for the art museum, then you're in luck, and this museum is particularly connected to the story of the city's growth and prosperity.

In 1853, an art exhibition was held on the lawn of Leinster House, our government buildings right next door.

It proved so popular that it was decided a permanent exhibition hall should be built right here.

That would become the National Gallery of Ireland, and it's full of artists from all over the world.

But there's one Irish artist I want you to see in particular who's a favorite of mine, and his name, well, you'll recognize it.

Let's head on in.

♪ Emer, we're in my favorite building in Dublin, and we're in- indeed we're right in my favorite room in that building, and that's because I love this artist.

Could you tell me about this particular painting?

EMER: Yeah, so this painting here, it's by Jack B. Yates, who is the younger brother of William Butler Yates, one of our favorite writers here in Ireland.

And this painting is The Liffey Swim commemorating a huge event that happens every year here in Ireland, happening during the Civil War here in Ireland as well.

So this was painted in 1923, went on then in 1924 to win a Silver Olympic medal.

MICHAEL: There was Olympics for art?

EMER: Yeah, I know it's not done anymore which is such a shame, but back then it was really important, particularly in 1924.

So this event here happening during the Civil War, the Olympic Committee felt this was the perfect example of bringing people together, and how sports can do that.

So on this day, both sides just put everything to one side and said, "You know what?

"This is an event that we love, let's just put everything down and enjoy it."

♪ MICHAEL: We got a lot of drama going on here, Emer.

EMER: We do indeed.

So this is the Battle of the Boyne, happening in 1690.

It's between William of Orange, Protestant King, and King James II, the Catholic King.

King James knew he wasn't gonna get the support in England, "I'm gonna bring the battle over to Ireland, where I know all my Catholic friends are."

William of Orange was like, "Fine with me, I'll follow you over."

So King James II had about 10,000 men, William of Orange had about three times that men coming with him.

So, it's a lot happening here.

The artist himself, the Dutch artist, never actually came to Ireland, never saw this battle in person, but he used a lot of eyewitness events and he used maps and stuff like that to make sure the landscape was correct, as well.

♪ MICHAEL: Emer, I am delighted to be back here because I love to come here for an afternoon of quiet contemplation in the heart of Dublin.

Why do you think that the place is so special?

EMER: Do you know what?

We have such a large collection here, international and Irish, but almost everything has a connection to Ireland in some way.

So take this room here, our Grand Gallery.

MICHAEL: Yep.

EMER: Every painting in this room has some sort of a connection to Ireland.

MICHAEL: Oh, I- I genuinely had no idea.

♪ (traffic noises) ♪ As a relatively compact city, Dublin is walkable, and it's so packed with places of interest and things to do that a simple stroll down a side street is likely to lead you to an as yet undiscovered treasure, all you have to do is have a look around.

You know, I have walked by that very gate a thousand times without having any clue about the magic that lies within.

♪ This place, a trove of knowledge, is the perfect setting to meet the endlessly fascinating Niamh Ní Charra, who is not only a professional archivist, but an award-winning, multi-instrumentalist who performed with me in Riverdance, and a singer.

Now there's a triple threat for you.

♪ Niamh Ni Charra, I was just doing some math here, and-- NIAMH N Í CHARRA: Oh, oh please don't.

(laughing) MICHAEL: We- we- we started working together in Riverdance, the show, in the Hammersmith Apollo in London, in 1997.

NIAMH N Í CHARRA: Yeah, I was five.

(laughing) MICHAEL: A world away, right?

But, I recognize you as a unique and individual talent here in Ireland, long since you left Riverdance you carved this amazing solo career that is so full of legitimacy, and intent in honoring your family tradition, and the tradition that has been passed down to you with music.

Not only do you play the fiddle, but you also play this magnificent instrument.

(Niamh Ní Charra chuckling) How old is this?

NIAMH N Í CHARRA: So this is probably 1830s, 1840s.

And it's made by Charles Jeffries, and actually there's an address on the concertina, 23 Parade Street, London, and I don't think that street even exists anymore.

♪ ♪ MICHAEL: The reason that I love what you do is because you not only take that oral tradition, you learned all of these tunes from your own family, but now you're also an archivist here in Ireland.

And you take the responsibility of, of taking that music and passing it down to the next generation, and recording that music, that means a lot to you, am I right?

NIAMH N Í CHARRA: Absolutely.

I mean, I suppose growing up with the tradition of playing music, and- and the- the- the area I come from, I come from Killarney, but that area, the larger area, is known as Sliabh of Luachra, and it's musically quite well known in Ireland.

It has a particular type of style, and it's a huge part of our tradition to be part of that, but also to pass it on and to do honor to the people who've passed it on to us in the first place.

MICHAEL: I would love to talk a little bit more about that oral tradition of- and the naming of tunes.

NIAMH N Í CHARRA: Mm-hmm.

MICHAEL: Now, in- I don't know that there's anywhere else in the world where we will find the most unusual names for tunes that you can possibly find.

Why do you think that is?

Is it because of our oral tradition?

NIAMH N Í CHARRA: Yeah, so if you think about it a lot of people that were passing on tunes orally, so they were- they were- they were playing tunes in the session, or in- in the house, in a rambling house, and they wouldn't have written it down.

And for a lot of them, they were musically illiterate, they couldn't have written it down if they'd wanted to.

So in some cases what they're doing is they're passing on the name of the person they learned the tune off, in other cases they're trying to come up with a name that will help them remember.

One of the polkas that- that I- that I have there very much linked to this locality.

It's a- a tune that I composed, that I called the Two Part Pour, and it is in honor of Guinness.

MICHAEL: I'm very familiar with the two part pour.

NIAMH N Í CHARRA: We're in the home of Guinness, yeah.

Well that story came about because I was playing on stage at a festival that was sponsored by them.

But myself and my other musicians, we were playing away, and we were watching everybody being given really bad pints of Guinness.

(laughing) (Michael laughing) Because they were sponsoring the- the festival, but they weren't involved in how they were being poured.

So these barmen at the back were just doing the full pour, and it was... MICHAEL: Absolute sacrilege.

NIAMH N Í CHARRA: Rising up.

Sacrilegious.

So on the spot, as I was introducing a set of tunes, I was pl- about to play one of my own tunes, but a different tune.

And I said "I'll give it a new name, just for now."

And I called it the Two Part Pour.

MICHAEL: Well I want to hear it.

♪ (Niamh Ní Charra vocalizing) ♪ ♪ ♪ (Niamh Ní Charra laughing) ♪ MICHAEL: Amy, I am ashamed to say I know nothing about this wonderful building.

Tell us a little bit about Marsh's Library.

AMY: Well, it's described as a hidden gem most of the time, a lot of Dubliners don't even realize that we're here.

But what it is is Ireland's first public library.

So the founder, Narcissus Marsh was originally an English clergyman, came to Dublin to take over as the Provost of Trinity.

The library at Trinity was very small and restrictive, and it inspired a dream in him to basically have a public library built in the city for more access.

Over the centuries, we've had famous readers here, such as Bram Stoker, the author of "Dracula," James Joyce, of course "Ulysses," and in the early years Jonathan Swift used to like to have a little bit of research done here as well.

♪ MICHAEL: The dozens of famed writers who made use of the archives at Marsh's Library are now having their own stories preserved themselves in a former University College Dublin house with a special connection to James Joyce.

I can use all the expertise I can get.

Simon, it seems that every room we walk into in this beautiful museum is hugely different.

SIMON: Yeah, we're in the first of three buildings that the museum occupies on St. Stephen's Green.

The original home of University College, Dublin, built this house, this house was built in the 1760s, and in here we talk a little bit about the history of the University, and in particular some of it's more important, interesting graduates.

MICHAEL: Oh, tell me more about who graduated from here.

SIMON: So a huge amount of writers have studied in these buildings.

MICHAEL: Wow.

SIMON: Perhaps the most well known is James Joyce who graduated here in 1902.

He doesn't look too happy.

MICHAEL: (laughing) Why do you think?

SIMON: Because he didn't get- you know he didn't get the best marks in the world, and it's something we try and tell students all the time, you know, you can go and write the 20th century masterpiece and not have the best degree in the world.

MICHAEL: So Simon, I feel like we're at the very heart of the museum.

Can you tell me what we're looking at?

SIMON: Yeah, so this is probably the rarest, most valuable item, in the state collections.

This is the very first copy of "Ulysses" by James Joyce that was ever printed.

MICHAEL: Time to meet another member of Dublin royalty from the musical Black Family, Aoife Scott.

♪ Dublin can be heaven ♪ With coffee at 11 and a stroll ♪ ♪ Through Stephen's Green ♪ There's no need to worry ♪ ♪ There's no need to hurry, you're the king ♪ ♪ And the lady, a queen MICHAEL: Aoife Scott, I've never met you, (Aoife laughing) but you're from Dublin.

AOIFE: Yeah.

MICHAEL: You can't get out of it.

AOIFE: No.

MICHAEL: Cause you have the thickest Dublin accent I've ever heard.

AOIFE: Well I do have a Dublin accent, yeah.

I can tend to tone it down a little bit, but it depends on who I'm talking to.

But if I'm talking to people from Dublin my accent gets really strong, you wouldn't even understand it.

MICHAEL: So how do you think that Dublin influenced you then?

(Aoife chuckling) AOIFE: Oh, well, I mean I'm very passionate about where I'm from, I'm passionate about the city, I'm passionate about the history, and I'm passionate about what's behind the walls of everywhere.

Do you know, because it's- it's a- it's an amazing city, and it's got so much energy and vibrance.

♪ I've been here, and I've been there ♪ ♪ I've sought the rainbows end ♪ ♪ But no crock of gold I've found ♪ ♪ But I know that come what may ♪ ♪ Whatever fate may bring ♪ Here my feet are deeply in the ground ♪ ♪ Cause Dublin can be heaven ♪ ♪ With coffee at 11 and a stroll ♪ ♪ Through Stephen's Green Somebody asked me yesterday, "Well what- what age did you learn to sing?"

There is no age, because we were- it's before we were being spoken to, we were talk- we were sung to, and so singing was such a way of communicating in our family.

And... like, we just had songs, and songs, and songs, and making up songs, and just generally singing the whole time, and that comes from being from Dublin.

♪ Grafton Streets a wonderland ♪ ♪ There's magic in the air ♪ ♪ Diamonds in the lady's eyes ♪ ♪ And gold dust in her hair ♪ ♪ And if you don't believe me ♪ ♪ Come and meet me there ♪ In Dublin on a sunny summer's morning ♪ ♪ In Dublin on a sunny Sunday morning ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: As always, we come back to that aspect of Irish culture where I'm most at home, music.

And it's time for me to go back home in another sense as well, to the theater where I had the first audition of my professional career, The Gaiety.

Occupied for the summer by a show near and dear to my heart.

Walking into The Gaiety Theatre here in Dublin, I can't believe that I am back at Riverdance after 21 years away.

This is the juggernaut that launched my career and blew away the world with the Irish Arts.

Starting in the chorus on Broadway, I was told one night, at the last possible minute, that I'd be going on as lead singer, terrified.

I did the part, and I stayed on for the remainder of the run.

Those were the whirlwind days that only got wilder after the curtains closed, and I'm forever grateful to them.

I mean the memories are flooding back to me just being in the lobby, so this reunion across the ocean back in the city where this inimitable show first came alive, fills me with such joy.

There's a sound check going on right now, so let's head on in.

(footsteps tapping) ♪ WOMAN: Turn this way.

MICHAEL: The energy in the theater is electric, and familiar.

(footsteps tapping) ♪ In the years since Riverdance began, there's been an explosion of interest in the Irish Arts.

And the show I was part of 20 years ago has directly inspired a whole new generation of talented performers from all over the world.

♪ With this new generation of Irish dancers come new ways of sharing what they do.

MICHAEL G: Matthew and I always loved to dance, and put our videos and stuff on social media.

MICHAEL: Something that the Gardiner brothers know a lot more about than me.

Matthew and Michael, I cannot believe that I'm sitting in this iconic space in the heart of Dublin, as an old geezer (brothers laughing) who was in one of the first Riverdances, and I'm here talking to the future of Riverdance, the Gardiner brothers.

How did ye get to be here in The Gaiety Theatre?

MATTHEW: Well we- we both started when we were very young, started dancing when we were three and four.

MICHAEL: I know when you- when you join a show like Riverdance, it has that- it's- I mean it is a part of pop culture, it's a phenomenon.

You must be terrified when you initially started with the show, am I right?

MATTHEW: It- it was- it was... it was an absolute pleasure to be- (Michael G. chuckles) to join the show.

MICHAEL G: Yeah.

MATTHEW: There's pressure with it though as well, cause it is just such a phenomenon, and it's like, it was that dream that we wanted to get to, and it is the top.

MICHAEL: Without a doubt.

MATTHEW: Yeah.

MICHAEL G: You still have those little bit of nerves every night you know, before you go on.

But, you know, it's about using them, making sure you use it correctly, (Matthew agrees) and you know- you realize it's an honor to be up there every night, so, it kind of- it's- it's always inspiring you every single night.

MICHAEL: Well maybe you can teach me a few steps.

MICHAEL G: Absolutely.

MICHAEL: Let me tell you, I was the lead singer of the show.

MICHAEL G: Yeah.

MICHAEL: And there's a reason.

(brothers laughing) But I wouldn't mind learning a few steps.

MATTHEW: Yeah MICHAEL G: Let's do it.

WOMAN: Da-da-da-da-da-da.

(Michael yelling) WOMAN: And da-da-da-da-da.

(indistinct chatter) Keep going.

MICHAEL: No, it's that thing in the middle.

WOMAN: It's good.

MICHAEL: Leaving my ego, and whatever pride I ever had in the wings.

WOMAN: Forward, da-da.

MICHAEL: No.

MICHAEL: I took to the stage for the chance to embarrass myself on a whole other level.

WOMAN: Now we're gonna try the other one, and forward.

MICHAEL: Oh, no.

WOMAN: Go again?

(footsteps tapping) ♪ MICHAEL: I don't look half bad up there, if it weren't for the few years between me and the actual dancers.

(Michael groaning) (dancers clapping) MICHAEL: Lads...

When we had the chance to come and film the show here at The Gaiety, I really, in truth, didn't know whether I wanted to, because when I did the show on Broadway it was a very special time in my life.

I realized that it was a special opportunity, but it was only after I left.

And to this day, 21 years later, no matter where I sing, or no matter where I'm presenting on- on TV, somebody will say to me, "Oh my God, you were in Riverdance."

We were young, cool, when Irish people weren't all that cool.

I wasn't that particularly cool either.

(woman laughing) But being an ambassador for the country, you've got to remember in 10, or 15 years, when you're talking to your kids about it.

And that's why I look at you, because you're all kids and it's... sorry for being so, (Michael gets emotional) WOMAN: Oh.

MICHAEL: It's such a special time in your lives and I'd love you to cherish it, because it's the most beautiful time you're ever going to have.

WOMAN: Thank you Michael, thank you so much.

(dancers clapping) MICHAEL: Padraic, I am thinking back to when I had a conversation with you at the very start of a tour that we were about to begin.

You were 18 years old, I was considerably older, but we were b- still both kids.

And I can't quite believe I get my head around that I am now talking to executive producer of Riverdance.

All of those years have transformed you into being this great leader of this phenomenon.

How does it feel to you to be at this point?

PADRAIC: Well, it- it's amazing, cause I've never really worked since I've been here.

I've always loved what I've done here, like you.

Everybody that's been here loves being part of this.

MICHAEL: In watching the kids out on stage there today, I- I was touched by their wide-eyed wonder, and I- I'm not sure they realized the importance of their roles as performers in the show, first and foremost, as representative of- of- of Riverdance, but also as cultural ambassadors around the world.

PADRAIC: Yeah, well I thought you spoke brilliantly out there, by the way.

Not alone did you dance brilliantly.

MICHAEL: Thank you.

PADRAIC: You were one of those performers up there today.

MICHAEL: I'm ready to join the line, anytime my friend.

(Padraic laughing) PADRAIC: No, but these guys, Michael, like when we were in the show we were newly professional, right?

We didn't always know what was the right professional etiquette at times.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

PADRAIC: We were just beginning to learn how all that worked.

Now they come in and they're professional from day one.

I mean, we can understand that we were learning, They come in and they know so much already.

They are s- they are terrific people, above the talent that they have, which is exceptional, and far superior than what I had in my day.

But the people that they are, the people that we get to work with, and how they not just- represents the show or the country that they are from, but also how they represent their families and their communities, Their teachers, their parents, their brothers and sisters.

I mean, these guys are on a whole other level, and I hope that we played a role in helping it to get there.

MICHAEL: Right.

PADRAIC: But the future for Riverdance is so, so bright.

♪ (crowd cheering) MICHAEL: Thanks for joining me on my travels around Dublin.

I'm Michael Londra, and I hope to see you next time on Ireland with Michael.

But for now, cheers.

Sláinte.

ANNOUNCER: Want to continue your travels to Ireland?

A deluxe Ireland with Michael DVD featuring all episodes of Season One plus bonus concert footage is available for $30.

Season Two plus bonus concert footage is available for $30.

A copy of the Ireland with Michael Companion Travel Guide featuring places to visit, as seen in Seasons One and Two, is also available for $30.

ANNOUNCER: This offer is made by Wexford House.

Shipping and handling is not included.

MICHAEL: To learn more about everything you've seen in this episode, go to IrelandWithMichael.com.

ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael was made possible by... ♪ ANNOUNCER: Whether traveling to Ireland for the first time, or just longing to return, there's plenty more information available at Ireland.com.

♪ ANNOUNCER: CIE Tours, sharing the magic of Ireland for 90 years.

♪ ANNOUNCER: Aer Lingus has been bringing people home since 1936.

If you are thinking about Ireland, Aer Lingus is ready when you are to take you home.

MICHAEL: OK, put your hands up in the air!

Come on, let's get a-waving.

♪ In my heart its rightful queen ♪ ♪ Ever loving, ever tender ♪ MICHAEL: That's it.

♪ Ever true ♪ Like the Sun your smile has shone ♪ MICHAEL: Go on, Wexford.

♪ Gladdening all it glowed upon ♪ ♪